First things first:
Before you start consider what you are aiming at doing, if you need a waterproof joint consider a SILVER plated compression plug like the one below. You will note that this is not a two part plug this has a few parts.
Here we go:
- Before cutting the COAX, put on the locking bolt, as you can’t do this when the brading is cut.
- From the end of the feeder mark in pencil where the housing of the PL case ends, this point is where you take a craft knife to and cut your insulation away.
- Using a sharpish instrument peel back the screening to where the insulation has been stripped. using a small soldering iron tin the ends of the screen being carefull not to melt the dialectric between the screen and the hot wire.
- 4mm above the screen cut the dialectric and strip back, at this point its good to put the end washer (with insert) onto the coax and the red bung too, then place the two washers ontop of that.
- Solder the Inner wire to the center pin of the Connector
- Place the body of the PL259 onto the other bits and using a Spanner (or wrench) tighten the whole fixture up.
- Take a fully assembled (shell + body) connector.
- Measure the connector against the RG8 (or similar) coax.
- Take the outer covering of the coax off with a sharp knife.
- Pull the braid back all the way by fanning it out.
- Wrap 3 to 4 turns of insulating tape around the center conductor dielectric up against the fanned out braid.
- Use wire strippers and remove the remaining dielectric from the center conductor.
- Install the fully assembled PL259 onto the center conductor and over the insulating tape.
- Solder the center conductor.
- Fan out the shield and cut it to 1/4″ long and fold over the back of the PL259.
- Solder the shield all the way around to the back of the PL259 body.
- While the back is still hot wrap 2 turns of insulating tape around the soldered shield
to seal it good.
- Seal with either PTFE or Electical tape